Description
Under cabinet lighting puts the light where the ceiling fitting cannot reach: straight down onto the worktop, with your own shadow out of the way. One prewired kit lights every run of wall units in the kitchen, and the same configurator will light the plinth or the top of the cabinets instead if that is the look you are after.
Every kit is built to your kitchen rather than sold in fixed lengths. Tell the configurator how many cabinet runs you have and roughly how long they are, and we cut a strip for each run, size the driver for the exact load, and pre-wire the lot before it ships. The price updates as you build, so what you see is what you pay.
How to Build your Under Cabinet Lighting Kit
Five choices, in order, in the configurator above:
- Where the light goes. Under the cabinets for worktop task light, along the plinth for a soft floor-level glow, or over the cabinets to wash the ceiling.
- Colour. Fixed white in warm 3000K, natural 4000K, pure 5000K or cool 6000K. Adjustable white you tune anywhere from 2700K to 6500K. RGB or RGBW for colour changing. Or one fixed colour in red, green, blue, pink or orange.
- Control. Static on the wall switch, dimmable, motion activated with a PIR sensor, or an RF remote for the colour changing options.
- Measurements. Number of cabinet runs and their average length, or one total length for a plinth or over-cabinet run.
- Add-ons. An aluminium profile with diffuser, and a spare connector pack.
Dot-Free Light on the Worktop
A worktop shows you exactly what your lighting is made of. Cheap strip puts a row of bright diodes inches above a reflective surface, and every one of them stares back at you from the granite. The white and adjustable white strips in this kit are dotless COB at CRI 90 and above: one continuous line of light, no spots in the reflection, and colours on the chopping board that look the way they do in daylight.
The same kit makes a kitchen night light. Run the strip along the plinth, add the PIR sensor, and the floor lights up as you walk in, then switches itself off after you have gone. The sensor is rated to 120W, which covers around twelve metres of the white strip, and further again in a single colour, so a whole kitchen plinth is comfortably inside the limit. The configurator works this out from your measurements and tells you if your run is over it.
What Is Included:
- LED strip, cut to length, with a pre-wired segment for each cabinet run
- A driver sized automatically for your total load
- PIR sensor, dimmer, or RF remote and receiver, depending on the control you choose
- Run-to-run link cables and solderless connectors
- Aluminium profile and diffuser if you add it
- Wiring diagram and measuring guide
The link cables span the gaps between cabinet runs, over doorways and behind extractor hoods, so one kit and one driver light the whole kitchen.
How do I fit my kit under my cabinets?
Everything is pre-wired, and the connectors are solderless, so the strips and the links go together by hand. Fix each strip under the front edge of the cabinet, just behind the lip, so the light washes the whole worktop rather than the wall behind it; the optional profile gives it a neat wipeable face and hides the strip from a seated eyeline.
Whether you need an electrician comes down to the driver. Shorter runs use a plug-in driver that goes into a standard socket, often the one inside an appliance cupboard, or into a fused spur if you would rather it was out of sight. Longer runs need a larger driver wired in, and that part is a job for a qualified electrician. The configurator tells you which one your kit uses before you order.
FAQs for our Under Cabinet Lighting Kits
Do I need an electrician?
Not for shorter runs on a plug-in driver. Longer runs use a hardwired mains driver and do need one. Your kit tells you which before you buy.
Should the strip go at the front or the back of the cabinet?
At the front, just behind the cabinet lip. Mounted at the back it lights the splashback and leaves the front of the worktop, where you actually work, in shadow.
My kitchen is L-shaped. How do I measure?
Count each straight section as its own run. Each run gets its own pre-cut strip, and the prewired link cables carry the power around the corner between them.
Can the lights come on by themselves?
They can if you choose the motion-activated option. The PIR sensor triggers on movement and switches off on its own, which is what turns a plinth run into a night light.
Are the lights dimmable?
Yes. The white and single colour strips take an inline dimmer on shorter runs and an RF remote dimmer on longer ones; the configurator picks the right one. The colour changing strips dim from their own remote.
What about steam and grease?
Add the aluminium profile and diffuser. The strip sits behind a smooth face that wipes clean with everything else in the kitchen.
What if my kitchen is unusually big?
Runs are fed in parallel every five metres so the last cabinet is as bright as the first. There is a maximum length for each strip type, and the configurator will say if you are over it. Get in touch, and we will quote for it.
Can I fit the profile on any option?
On all of them except RGBW, where the 12mm strip fills the channel.
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